Baye fall is a sub-group of the Mouride brotherhood -a large Islamic Sufi order most prominent in Senegal, North of Africa. The followers are called Mourides, “one who desires”, a term used generally in Sufism to designate a disciple of a spiritual guide. Their clothes call “Njahas” which consists of hundreds of small multicolored parts inspire the geometric and color block cuts assembled of scrapes of diverse fabrics but in a minimal and cleaner way. The pants worn by warriors in the pre-colonial wolof kingdom are a visual symbol of their religious affiliation and may refer to specific local precedents.
The clothes may also be read as symbols of the Baye fall rejection of dominant systems of wealth and status. Some comfy pieces such as big, medium and small jumpsuit came draped across the front in black…skirts, dresses and short shorts draped at the waist remind us rags wound on the body. Some oversized kaftan inspiration has embraced big blouses with zippers and pleated shoulders.
The transition from youth to maturity style is felt in linen jackets ¾ and the strap skirt with the twisted cut in the waist or the ethnic black and white fabric but the turquoise metallic fabric gives the freshness and the innovation touch.